Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

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Manoverboard
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Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

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Post by Manoverboard »

The Wessex Rose is a 5* Hotel Barge that chugs sedately along the Kennet & Avon Canal, essentially between Newbury and Bath in 3,4,5 or 7 day segments .... however there are now additional cruises available which extend the options to include Bristol to the West plus London and / or Oxford ( via the River Thames ) to the East.

http://www.wessexrose.co.uk/

This year we booked 7 days on the ‘ WR ‘ taking us from Newbury in Berkshire to Oxford.

We added a couple of additional nights in a ‘ Boutique Hotel ‘ ( Oxford Prison to be precise ) at the end of our cruise for site / sight seeing in the City of Oxford

https://www.malmaison.com/locations/oxford/

~~~~~~~~~~~~~

‘ Wessex Rose ‘;

There will obviously be one or two parallels with my 2014 Cruise Report regarding the ‘ Wessex Rose ‘ herself but the journey is entirely different of course.

The average barge / narrow boat is 6 feet wide and has little privacy, shared facilities and bunk beds else fold down sofas and the food usually consists of Pub Grub. Conversely the Wessex Rose is 12 feet wide and 69 feet long so is huge, also far more luxurious, by comparison but she does fit rather snugly into some of the canal locks.

The Cabins ...

There are three double / twin cabins for guests with each having their own en-suite facilities complete with individual water pumps and airline / cruise ship style full sized toilets. The power shower is within the same compact enclosure and is by design akin to a wet room. Tea / coffee options are provided in the cabin and Karen provides fresh chilled milk in a mini thermos flask during the evening for use first thing in the morning. The cabins are compact with the en-suite facilities leading off the main cabin but they do have sufficient space for a luxury quality king sized bed equivalent in the double configuration option although we decided to have twin beds this time as it saved me from being trampled upon when Mobietta headed off to make the morning coffees. There is also a slim wardrobe and sufficient shelf space for most cruises.. We took a small suitcase plus a carry-on type bag each which we stowed under the bed for additional space or for dirty washing etc.

Egyptian cottons rule as do fluffy white towels plus oodles of piping hot water and 13amp sockets. A small LED type torch is thoughtfully provided for guests who may need to get up in the night along with tissues and eco friendly toiletries in the en-suite etc.


The Journey ....

Boarding is requested at 16:00 but we arrived at the Newbury mooring around lunchtime.

As we got out of the car and walked towards the boat we were vaguely aware of another couple doing the same thing. They had just arrived from Australia and were, would you believe it, one of the couples who we shared our canal cruise with last year ... neither of us had any idea about the plans of the other. What a surprise, ironically the third couple were from Cheshire and lived only a few miles from where we used to live ... it’s a very small World.

So, having said our hellos and then goodbyes we dropped our luggage off with David at the ‘ Wessex Rose ‘ and set off to the railway station for a short return train journey between Newbury and Bedwyn. This route is alongside the K&A canal and we had thought that it may set the mood for our forthcoming cruise ... it was ok but with hindsight mid January would have been a far better choice as the dense foliage would by then have thinned somewhat.

The order below and no doubt some of the finer details are ‘ ish ‘ as is / are the times and timings on a barge trip, just go with the flow.

The journey itself was from the Swing Bridge in Newbury to the Folly Bridge on the River Thames in Oxford.

The Kennet and Avon is described by some as being the most beautiful Canal in the Country, it certainly is although a tad less so I would venture to suggest when heading from Newbury towards the River Thames junction at Reading. There were deffo places of interest along this stretch although in all honesty they made less impact on us than last year’s routing. The biggest surprise however was Reading. We are familiar with parts of this Town because one of our boys lived in Caversham but we used to avoid going south via the Centre like the plague and generally headed out to the north or westwards through grubby industrial zones. Cruising on the River Kennet we saw none of this, the approach was almost serene and arrival at the town locks complete with traffic lights was just the start of a majestic journey through the Oracle Shopping Complex. Walking within it is just so-so and like any other but to cruise through it is almost a Regal / Disneyland experience ....we came to our senses later however when we tied up outside Tesco-on-Thames for the night.

As before the travel times are varied and the stopping points are in part based on requests from the guests rather than being imposed but we were always parked / moored overnight and for breakfast, lunch and our evening meals.

Within coaching tour itineraries there is a subtle and generally known difference between seeing places and visiting them, this does not apply on a barge. The places to visit can even change on a reverse journey due to timings, the nature of the river and its locks and weirs. Not so or certainly less so on a canal. We researched the route and worked out that we could potentially visit Reading’s biscuit Museum, Mapledurham House, Pangbourne, Goring, Wallingford, Abingdon and finally Oxford. We were unable to visit the first three and I was unable to get off the boat at the fourth because of wibbly wobbly balance issues over water. Wallingford is a delightful place but Abingdon less so and especially on a drizzly day.

And finally we are in Oxford.

We arrived at lunchtime, had lunch on board and then strolled from our mooring close to the entry of the River Cherwell into the Thames towards Folly Bridge and then on and upwards heading in the general area of the Castle to locate our Hotel and to decide if we would walk or get a taxi in the morning when we disembarked. It took us 55 mins to locate it and 35 to return to the boat .... bloody roadworks are everywhere.

We could have had cells in the Hotel but opted instead for a large executive room, we certainly enjoyed the aircon and the extra space.

After saying our goodbyes we decided to walk to the Hotel and to deposit the luggage ... in the Luggage Room no less and then we walked virtually non stop for two days with no lunch either day and just a yogurt each morning for breakfast but In the evening we had a pub style Steak n Chips on one night and a selection of Spanish Tapas in La Tasca the other.

My thanks to ‘ Cubie ‘ for his suggestion re Carluccio's but we simply didn’t have the legs to make it that far; the covered market was ace but roadworks and the entire team from DiggerWorld conspired to prevent us getting into the Randolf Hotel for a Morse Moment.

We did manage many if not most of the ‘ Oxford Walks ‘ and did manage to get into three of the colleges plus the Sheldonian Theatre. Everybody we met and spoke to were so helpful except at Christchurch College where they had a Jobsworth at the St Aldgate entrance who had no intention whatsoever of letting me take a pic from inside her ‘ zonal area ‘ even though I had £16’s worth of tickets in my hand ... the sun was in the right direction from this vantage point and it was the only place from which to take it.


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Back to ‘ Wessex Rose ‘;

The Food ...

But remember that timings are ‘ish ‘ !

08:00 – Breakfast

11:00 – Cafetiere of Coffee / Tea plus Karen’s home made cookies.

13:30 – Lunch, single course plus fruit as required

15:30 – Cafetiere of Coffee / Tea plus Karen’s home made cakes.

19:30 – 4 course Evening meal

Menus are fixed and are rotated at 7 day intervals, a number of changes had been made for returning passengers as well as for operational reasons.

Courses are plated but will be served in smaller portions if requested. Dietary issues are catered for but advance notification is of course required.

Cheese n biscuits has now been added as a lunchtime alternative to fruit, much appreciated as we have no room for these delights at dinner time.

The standard of food is exceptionally high, think ‘ Master Chef ‘ rather than ‘ Little Chef ‘, it was in reality far better than anything we have ever been served on a Cruise Ship regarding quality, taste and especially so presentation. Gourmet or Fine Dining is an apt description.

Beer and wines are all inclusive and although some restrictions re choice must apply due to lack of on board storage space the provision is generous and of a decent quality.

Main meals are served on three close proximity tables for two in the dining / lounge area at the not so pointy end, an area which is well lit and ventilated due to opening windows on three sides plus a sliding glass roof.


The Crew ....

There is the Executive Chef plus a trained Helmsman and Navigator of course plus a member of the team who replenishes water, diesel and LPG fuel levels as well as dealing with any waste water, environmental and landfill waste. There is also a sous chef, a pastry cook and a Housekeeper who does all the laundry and keeps everything absolutely spotless throughout this splendid craft. There is in addition a cabin Steward, two waiters plus a bar steward as well as a maintenance engineer, luggage porter, tree pruner and a lock operator.

All these people are called David and Karen.


As an aside ....

Gratuities are neither expected nor required.

Flowers are to be found in pots atop the deck along with chairs and collapsible protective rails, the rails need to be taken down while cruising due to a number of low-ish bridges.

A Canal Cruise is by its very nature extremely laid back and entirely casual, thankfully, even in our 5 star Barge Hotel. We did however dress up to something approaching elegant casual for our evening meals, well, most of the time anyway.

Conclusion ...

Last year was our first canal journey in a Barge Hotel and this year was our first river journey in a Barge Hotel ... the canal trip was smaller scale with lots and lots to see on a large barge but this year and specifically on the River Thames section our large barge seemed so much smaller. There was also very little to see between the locks or towns as above apart from a wide river and zillions of trees / bushes alongside it. The weather was not too kind either so the overall impression of River Cruising in a Barge rather than a Riverboat was sadly a tad disappointing. Having said that the icing on the cake was Oxford itself and if we opted to go there again there is no better way than by the Wessex Rose.

~~~~~~~~~ FIN
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oldbluefox
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#2

Post by oldbluefox »

Thanks for your review Moby and nice to see you back. You do choose your times to be away.
Every time we go to Carluccio's I am tempted by their meringues but have not managed one so far.
Pleased you enjoyed Oxford gaol. It must have been rather nostalgic for you!!! :wave: I must say Wessex Rose and the food sound lovely.

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#3

Post by Mervyn and Trish »

Another excellent review Moby, though not as good as my Britannia epic of course! I enjoyed the report of your previous trip and Wessex Rose is now definitely on our todo list. Make sure you get commission when we do go on her!

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#4

Post by Onelife »

Hi Mob

Some poster have the ability to make their reviews really informative and interesting...unfortunately yours isn't one of them...

ONLY JOKING!! :evil: :lol:

Really enjoyed reading your Barge experience Mob and I must say it brought back some very happy memories for me as it was only a few days ago that I was on a Barge cruising up and down the Avon at Evesham (funny thing is I thought we were supposed to be cruising up and down the river Avon at Stratford upon Avon) Ah well same river wrong place.

Just think Mob with a little diversion we might have bumped into each other... which wouldn't have been as unlikely as you may think...the reason being I got to steer our Barge for a good way on our homeward journey, thankfully the other captain had a defibrillator on board which did give some of the petrified passengers some reassurance that they would finally make it back to their disembarkation point...if I get the chance to captain the boat again I shall refrain from shouting...'Look no Hands!!... those old codgers ain't got no sense of humour :roll:

Anyhow nice to see you back and thanks for posting...what was without doubt the best review I have ever read...but please don't tell the others I've said that :angel:

Regards

Keith :wave:

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#5

Post by emjay45 »

Great review, I remember seeing this canal on the documentary with Prunella Scales and Timothy West and thought how lovely it must be cruising down canals seeing things you wouldn't normally see.

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#6

Post by Manoverboard »

oldbluefox wrote:
Pleased you enjoyed Oxford gaol. It must have been rather nostalgic for you!!! :wave:
Yes indeed it was ... for your info they now have rather sporty yellow n black striped jerseys to wear rather than those old ones with arrows on them plus we were lucky enough to get in(mates) rates for our stay.

:wave:
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#7

Post by Raybosailor »

Thanks for the review Moby I really enjoyed reading it, Cheryl and I used to hire narrow boats and we covered most of the canal network apart from the Mon. & Brec. in Wales and the Kennet & Avon which at the time were go nowhere canals. I know a lot of restoration work has taken place on the K&A and by your report it sounds like this is a holiday we should look into for the future.

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

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A very enjoyable read.
Jo

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#9

Post by ITWA Travel Writer »

I would agree that it is another great review, opening up yet another cruising option. It also goes to show that not all on here are members of the Pando Pantomime scene.
John

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#10

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Moby

I assume there are bars at this 'Boutique Hotel' ;)

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Mervyn and Trish
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

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Post by Mervyn and Trish »

ITWA Travel Writer wrote:
I would agree that it is another great review, opening up yet another cruising option. It also goes to show that not all on here are members of the Pando Pantomime scene.
Oh yes we are........ :sarcasm:

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#12

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Mervyn and Trish wrote:
ITWA Travel Writer wrote:
I would agree that it is another great review, opening up yet another cruising option. It also goes to show that not all on here are members of the Pando Pantomime scene.
Oh yes we are........ :sarcasm:
Oh no we're not .... and least one Member is able to spot it :thumbup:

I do of course recognise deny that my report was in any way inferior to that of your own viz a viz the good ship Lolipop Britannia.

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#13

Post by Mervyn and Trish »

And he's behind you...

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#14

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Ahoy there OL .... one is permitted to steer else man / woman the locks on the ' Wessex Rose ' but always under supervision just in case some numpty attempts to create a situation where the life jackets need to be utilised.

On that subject we did experience a newbie cruiser trying to turn their barge around at Reading in the River Kennet ... the guys were at the back shouting instructions and some abuse whereas the somewhat rotund and heavily blessed girls were ' heaving to ' in a vain attempt to dislodge the front of their barge from another one which was innocently moored on the river bank. Our trusty team of David and Karen spared their blushes and assisted them to continue on their merry way.

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Mervyn and Trish
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

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Post by Mervyn and Trish »

When boating in the past if we saw anyone heaving to our normal practice was to heave two back.

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#16

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Mervyn and Trish wrote:
When boating in the past if we saw anyone heaving to our normal practice was to heave two back.
:lol: :lol: :clap:
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#17

Post by ITWA Travel Writer »

Merv, are you sure that you were not my continuity announcer, back in the sixties, when I was broadcasting for forces radio in the Middle East? He had the same weird sense of humour.

:eh:
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

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Post by Mervyn and Trish »

ITWA Travel Writer wrote:
Merv, are you sure that you were not my continuity announcer, back in the sixties, when I was broadcasting for forces radio in the Middle East? He had the same weird sense of humour.

:eh:
Far too young, still in short trousers! Though I am of course, like yourself, a major media star :thumbup:

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#19

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emjay45 wrote:
... I remember seeing this canal on the documentary with Prunella Scales and Timothy West and thought how lovely it must be cruising down canals seeing things you wouldn't normally see.
That, Emjay, is exactly what it is like.

We had criss-crossed just about every road on this route plus the previous one in 2014 but hardly recognised a thing, walking through a village or town is also an entirely different experience to driving through it.
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#20

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Raybosailor wrote:
... I know a lot of restoration work has taken place on the K&A and by your report it sounds like this is a holiday we should look into for the future.
It is fully restored and was, for us, a fantastic experience.

Of the K&A in 2014 I wrote ...

The journey itself was from Bridge No 75 / Lock No 78 in Kintbury, Berkshire to Bridge No 189 / Lock 11 in the delightful City of Bath. The Bridges are numbered East to West with No 1 being in London whereas the ‘ Number 1 ‘ Lock is in Bristol increasing thereafter as they head Eastwards. As an aside / major highlight we therefore cruised through the Bruce Tunnel and the 16 consecutive locks West of Devizes known as the Caen Hill Flight in addition to passing through 115 bridges and 68 locks.

The Kennet and Avon is described by some as being the most beautiful Canal in the Country and we couldn’t possible argue about that given that this was our virgin canal cruise, we have however walked a few towpaths in our time. It was an amazingly scenic journey in a 200 year old setting virtually throughout its length, albeit with all Mod Cons, and we certainly didn’t want to miss a single yard / metre of it by being in the cabin or on published walking routes between the bridges etc. The travel times are varied and the stopping points are in part based on requests from the guests rather than being imposed but we were always parked / moored overnight and for breakfast, lunch and our evening meals.

Newbury we missed but we were able to visit Hungerford, Great Bedwyn, Alton Barnes with Alton Priors, Pewsey plus Marlborough via the local bus, All Cannings, Honeystreet, Wooten Rivers, Devizes, Bradford on Avon, Avoncliffe village and their aqueduct, Dundas aqueduct, Bathampton and finally Bath. Not a gob-smacking itinerary on the surface I grant you but as a whole it was as interesting as any sea or riverboat cruise that we have ever been on but for entirely different reasons.

Did you know that Bathampton was where the factory was ( until 1983 ) that made all that plasticine for us kids to play with .... thought not.

There is plenty of wildlife to see, ranging from the umpteen cats and dogs resident on the narrow boats to the swans, ducks, moorhens, herons, kingfishers and various birds of prey in their natural habitats ... we also saw a few water snakes and fish, plus fishermen with growly faces even though the Wessex Rose had slowed down considerably to pass them.

The K&A was derelict for many years but restoration with the not inconsiderable assistance of Sybil, of Faulty Towers fame, and her other half Timothy West was completed some 25 years ago. The canal was built with a water depth of 5 feet but lack of expenditure over recent years has resulted in nearly half that depth being lost to silt which does of course result in occasional inconvenience and grounding for all the barges. The width of the canal is being reduced due to weed encroachment and trees are over hanging the canal but armed with only a trusty pair of secateurs our resident tree pruner, David, sets to work dealing with this small matter.

:thumbup:
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emjay45
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#21

Post by emjay45 »

No, I didn't know that's where plasticine was made. This forum can be so educational :) It really does seem a lovely holiday,it was something I always wanted to do when my boys were young but could never talk my husband into doing it. :(
BTW I love merv's sense of humour.

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#22

Post by gfwgfw »

Enjoyed you excellent missive "Man Over The Side"

. . . . and sans sick bags
Gentle Giant of Cerne Abbas :wave:

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#23

Post by Manoverboard »

Dancing Queen wrote:
A very enjoyable read.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed it.
ITWA Travel Writer wrote:
I would agree that it is another great review, opening up yet another cruising option. It also goes to show that not all on here are members of the Pando Pantomime scene.
Cheers, ITWA.

We have alternated our holiday choices for the past 15 years or more, cruising with just one Cruise Line or even just cruising would, for us, be too repetitive ( boring ) to even contemplate.

ps ... I do hope that you are coping well, perhaps well enough, with your treatments.
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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

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Post by cruisin_duo »

Enjoyed reading this review. Thank you.

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Re: Cruising on a Barge ... July 2015

#25

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Stephen wrote:
Moby

I assume there are bars at this 'Boutique Hotel' ;)
Yes indeed so, the whole prison has been preserved including an ' exactly as it was ' cell awaiting, I assumed, a booking from your good self :thumbup:
gfwgfw wrote:
Enjoyed you excellent missive "Man Over The Side"

. . . . and sans sick bags
thanks Jolly Green Gee

:wave:
cruisin_duo wrote:
Enjoyed reading this review. Thank you :wave: .
You are most welcome

:wave:
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