Day 1 – Embarkation
The never-ending winter of 2013 continued as we left home on 4 April. The east wind blew, people were huddled against the biting cold and despite trying hard not to, we were forced to wear thick outside clothes for the short steps from home to car, car to kennels and those last steps into the terminal. It would have been terrible if we had taken the cold with us on our cruise and been unable to enjoy the outdoors for lack of suitable clothing. So, pets safely deposited for their holidays, we arrived at Southampton and the Ocean Terminal a few minutes before 12. No, no priority embarkation (yet!) so we received green N cards. Eek! That sounds like a wait. However, as I wash washing my hands in the ladies I had to stop the drier to hear the announcement that A cardholders should please step forward. Things moved quickly – just a few minutes for each letter and we were soon processed. The security snake/queue was fairly long but nevertheless we were on board shortly after 12.30. Good going! Our cabin was on the Lido deck, so we were able to sneak along from the buffet restaurant and find it ready for us. Our steward (Angello – obliging and very handsome if you like that sort of thing – think young Donny Osmond) confirmed it was OK to drop hand luggage, so we were fortunate in being able to leave belongings and heavy coats before going to check on the delights available. Cold meat and salad and a glass of house white filled the bill nicely and we were fortunate to eat and leave before the place became too crowded.
We booked very late ( exactly 3 weeks before sailing) so weren't surprised that we didn't get our preferee Freedom Dining option but had instead been allocated second sitting (8.45 now
) Well, we're larks not owls and, even on holiday, eating that late would mean going to bed far too soon afterwards and is just 'Pass the Gaviscon' material. So, we decided on Verona for the first night (before too many got to hear of its existence) and Sindhu on the second, whilst hoping for a change by day 3. Checked with reception and had it confirmed that the maitre d' would be around the next afternoon to receive requests for change.Cabins were announced as ready shortly after, so we went back (legally this time) and found one suitcase already there. Unpacked it and put back our coats, scarves and gloves and went out on deck. It was freezing, with strong snow flurries. Don't think we'll be taking our complimentary sailaway champagne on deck today. A few sad staff at the deck bars, bundled up in fleeces, slicing lemons etc, and looking totally perished having just sailed back from the Caribbean
Then came an announcement that we would be late departing (no reason that I heard but rumours later that bus(es) had been delayed.) Some people we lunched with over the next couple of days said that they had been delayed at check-in/security and that there were luggage problems. Certainly some people were still awaiting their cases at 9pm.
We were among the first in the 6.30 queue for Verona and were lucky to get a window table. Plus – nice view of dusk falling on the Solent/Fawley!; Minus – c-c-c-cold! A nice meal, though exactly the same menu as we recall from January 2012 (perhaps it's just a classic menu and they see no reason to change?). We ordered a nice bottle of Argentinian red but it was really cold! The wine waiter apologised but said they were stored in an unheated locker and .... In retrospect I think we should have sent it back and just had glasses of the house wine. It was very nice when it warmed in the glass but we both got really cold hands from cradling it!
Finished in time for the Headliners show, which was a bit of a disappointment as they only really did one number as it was a sort of 'preview' of what one might see throughout the trip. The CD was Matthew Batey, who we hadn't come across before but who was fine. At least he was on view, more than can be said of our invisible CD on Oceana last trip.
So, day 1 over, safe uneventful journey, embarkation and settling in. All good and fingers crossed for smooth seas and (could it really happen?) sunshine
Days 2 and 3 – At Sea
Day 2 Completed the Channel and turned into the Bay of Biscay at 9.50am. OK – how would the NNE Force 7 serve us? Actually, it was fine, the crossing was really comfortable. The Cruise Log records the temperature as 11C. Certainly it was nippy early and full outdoor kit was required but the sun came out in the afternoon and we were able to enjoy a little bit of warmth when we found sheltered spots on deck.
I went to the 8am stretch session in the gym and enjoyed it, so kept that up every morning. I was surprised that the gym didn't open till 8 – there was a queue waiting to get in and get exercising, with several insisting that they were in the gym at 6.30 at home and would like to keep the habit up.
First session from the onboard speaker, Prof Terry Keefe, doing a series on Titanic, other sea mysteries, other sinkings etc. Some thought it an odd choice of subject for cruise entertainment. His talks passed the time on sea days but he wasn't the best onboard speaker I've ever heard. Fact-heavy presentation but a fairly flat delivery style
Message from the maitre d' that our request for a change of dining had been granted – looked at the card ... yes, we had been changed but not to freedom as we wished, but to first sitting on a table of 7 at the Oriental. Ho hum, you can't win 'em all!
Dinner at Sindhu, though, as we had booked it and were looking forward. Yum. The menu with the lobster with coconut spice sauce. A bottle of Denbies English wine went well.
Day 3 Much warmer and sunnier. Sun worshipping possible in the afternoon and no problem finding a sunbed and an uncrowded space. A note on the metal-fronted balcony, which was absolutely fine. The metal didn't prevent any sun falling on your face or legs and really had little effect on balcony enjoyment. We were immediately behind and one deck higher than the bridge wing, so had an excellent spot to watch any activity taking place there. Some of the junior officers (cadets?) seemed incredibly young!
Lunch, like yesterday, was the 'lighter buffet option' set up in Oriental. Suited us fine – soup, serve yourself salad or carvery with choice of 2 meats and no choice of potato and hot vegetable and help yourself to a choice of plated desserts or cheese & biscuits.
So, finally, we made our way to our dinner table and found only 2 of the expected 5 table companions. They were nice company and we enjoyed our dining that evening and the remainder of the cruise, when the family of 3, including a young daughter, came sometimes and dined informally at others. I think that's fair enough, it's a bit of a tough ask for a junior school age child to enjoy dining formally with strangers for 12 solid nights.
Day 4 – Lisbon
A smooth approach and very pleasant weather as we approached Lisbon. We woke for the sail in and were not disappointed with the sunrise and the views. As we passed under the April 25 bridge a train went across it and a plane flew over, approaching the airport. A real Trains and Boats and Planes moment. Saga had beaten us to the best dock, in the city, so we had to get the shuttle bus in. They were ample and frequent, so no problem, though we always prefer simply walking off the ship.
Lisbon is so very sad – it's economic problems are obvious, with empty and unused buildings right in the centre. However, it was a Sunday when we docked, there were 3 cruise liners in but very few of the shops were open, many cafes were closed and, it appeared to us, that an opportunity had been missed to get the tourist euro, both from retail and catering. Not just the foreign visitors either – there were Portuguese visitors too, who were walking rather than spending. We'd hoped to enjoy a fishy lunch at a place we spotted near the cathedral last time we were there but it was closed for Sunday, so we went to an alternative which didn't look much from the outside but was pretty authentic, with the fish and meat in a refrigerated display in the window and wood panels and tiles inside. It also had the only 'public' loo I've ever visted which had its own bidet! A nice, simple, 3 course tourist lunch with small carafe of wine for 10Euro.
The day was bright but a cool wind kept the temperatures down. We got back to the shuttles and Azura in good time (a 3.30 departure. Grrr. I greatly dislike the curtailed shore days) and bagged a good sunbathing spot. It was warmer on the deck, as the wind was somehow mitigated, and we really needed the sun protection we used
Day 5 – Gibraltar
A mid-day arrival, to bright skies and warm temparatures. We had decided to have a good look around the Trafalgar graveyard which we had discovered on our previous visit. So, the long walk up Main Street, only to find the graveyard closed due to potential danger from the crumbling ancient walls. There is scaffold and screening up, so hopefully the walls will be stabilised and made safe in time, though it won't be a quick or easy job, I'm sure. So, plans scuppered, we sauntered slowly back through the crowds. Looking through an open pub door I noticed that there was a pic of Baroness Thatcher on the wall-hung TV. I guessed the reason why and it was confirmed on the cabin TV Sky service that she was deceased. We were early back on board and secured comfy sunbeds in a good spot in front of the Seascreen and enjoyed the songs from Les Miserables in the sun! I say the songs as it was virtually impossible to see the screen. Does it really work from anywhere in that area? We were straight on, in the first raised area. Perhaps it is visible from the deck level but can you hear it there? – the sound would be competing with the children having fun in the pool. No matter – cinema is not the prime reason for cruising, though I must say there was a good selection of current releases on board.
Day 6 – At Sea
21 degrees, sunshine, nothing to do, good food, everything at hand – what's not to like!
Day 7 – Barcelona
What a lovely sparking terminal at Barcelona. I think if I were to consider a Med fly/cruise it would be my embarkation port of choice. We weren't the most anxious to get off but found ourselves in an enormous snake of passengers leaving the ship and boarding the shuttles. However, all went smoothly and there were no long waits as the fleet of shuttle buses did their stuff. As I said before, this was a last minute booking, as much to get away from the cold weather as to visit the various destinations. We had been looking forward to Barcelona and La Ramblas though, since a long and rather alcoholic tapas lunch there on our last visit, so had planned a repeat. Octopus and sangria for me, paella and gigantic beer for Mr SS. Lovely! We had a walk around the market and discussed the practicality of bringing back a whole leg of mountain ham but sanity won and we decided 'nice idea but Nah':)
Day 8 – Valencia
What a beautiful city! Our first visit but hopefully not our last. 26C probably helped give a good impression too. Another city needing shuttle buses to the centre but the beach area is easily walkable from the cruise terminal and we saw several families doing just that as we looked out of the shuttle bus window. Valencia is busy, with 8 lanes of traffic at some roundabouts but the traffic arrangements seem very efficient, with lots of one-way and with excellent pedestrian facilities and long long 'pedestrian time' at the numerous light-controlled crossings. Beware if you go. Research and get a good map – do not rely on the tourist ones given out at the cruise terminal if you plan going anywhere but the most obvious. The shuttle drop-off point is in a totally anonymous street near the cathedral so take a good note if you aim to pick up the return shuttle. There were tales of P&O excursion buses being approached by shuttle passengers pleading to be allowed on and taken back to the ship as they simply couldn't find the right spot to board the shuttles.
We had always planned to look at the cathedral and its environs and then walk back to the terminal along the area created by diverting the course of the river (which used to regularly flood the city). So, cathedral duly visited and nice mid morning coffee enjoyed in a nearby square, we walked back towards the start of our big walk. The fountain had not been operating when we arrived, in the interim some clever soul had added a nice dose of detergent, so residents and visitors were having fun with clouds of bubbles all across the square!
Safely across the very busy road (just wait for the traffic lights and there is plenty of time to cross) and into the lovely green watery area. It is a lovely amenity for the city and an oasis of calm. Towards the port are the beautiful rather futuristic new buildings which are well worth a visit and then the Oceanografic aquarium. The Oceanografic is a closed off paid-for atraction, so it's back out onto the pavement for the last bit back to the port. The road rises, to cross the railway lines and Azura came into view, reassuring us that our navigation was OK. More walking, more roads to cross, the edge of the F1 circuit, then back home. We think it was something under 4 miles and it took about 90 minutes of easy walking/strolling. Preferable to sitting on a coach in our estimation – others may not think so
Day 9 – Malaga
We eschewed the shuttle buses which went to a central area and instead turned right out of the port and walked anong the promenade and then up steps and slopes to the Moorish fortress. Then a lazy couple of hours in a beach restaurant with the most gorgeous sea bass, grilled over a charcoal fire, set on a sand filled old fishing boat. Lovely! We had a long chat with a group of four ladies from Copenhagen who were in Torremolinos for a 4 day 'no family' break and were enjoying the sun (24C) after a cold winter like ours. Their sangria flowed – they were making the most of leaving their husbands and children for the long weekend:)
Day 10 – Cadiz
We just love Cadiz, so this was always going to be a great day. Clear skies and 24C again. Our day took the familiar form of – off the ship, good long walk to reacquaint ourselves with the layout and major sights, then lunch. Just light tapas this time, mountain ham and olives with a glass of local wine. All seated outside, within sight of the pretty cathedral. Sometimes we're a bit predictable
This was the day of The Great British Sailaway, and given the lovely weather and everyone's apparent good mood it was fine to sit in the sun and listen (again!) to the regional tunes and wave the union jacks. Also had our complimentary champagne, which went down well.
So, that was the end of the 'cruise' part, just those rotten two sea days left. We've told ourselves that next time we'll try to get something which calls in at a port on the day before disembarkation, to try to prolong the cruise element.
Days 11 and 12 – At Sea and Disembarkation back at Southampton
Day 11 The next day dawned with a heavy swell (is that the correct term - the ship was going from side to side, rather than up and down front to back) despite the winds only being Force 4. It was easy to pick out the poor sailors, slumped in chairs on Deck 5 or with room service visiting cabins with bland delights. It kept the ship feeling spacious though and it was warm and sunny enough to spend most time outside
Day 12 Strangely, better weather as we approached home. Able to be outside all the time and really left packing a bit later than we should, so it was a bit of a rush before dinner ... but no great problem. We'd booked Sindhu again. Same menu but we thought it was a little 'less great' this time. They had sold out of 2 wines (the 2 English ones) and initially brought me the wrong main course. No great problem, just not quite as splendid
Disembarkation We were in the last group for disembarkation (10 – 10.20) from Manhatten. It went very smoothly but moving around the ship prior to that, some areas seemed very crowded, particularly the Glasshouse and Malabar where there were people sitting on the floor. As long as they were only there for a few minutes I don't suppose that's too bad but I'd hate to think they were that squashed for a long time.
It was easy to find our luggage (the only Lido deck luggage left in the hall!), similarly the car. Smooth journey home, pets happy to 'Get Out of Jail' and all well at the house. I even unpacked everything that afternoon and did all the laundry next day and packed away the holiday stuff the next (ready for next time). And now Spring has sprung – Result!
Random thoughts
We like Azura. She is clean and fresh and has lots of amenities. However, I don't think we'd rush to go on an even bigger vessel
Entertainment was good. The Johnson Brothers and Zoe Tyler were new to me but I greatly enjoyed both. There were good recent films. I agree with another recent review that some of the event/destination choices seem erratic. Manhatten is not a good 'Cabaret Lounge' and I don't suppose it could be retro-fitted with a raked floor or raised stage.
There were a lot of children aboard, it being the end of the Easter holiday, and they all seemed to be having a good time. They were well behaved – I didn't see any poor behaviour.
My major niggle – timekeeping! Every morning we dedicated stretchers waited outside a locked Spa area till two or three minutes past eight, meaning our half-hour class didn't start till we'd all got in, removed shoes and grabbed a mat, at about 6 or eight past eight, meaning we didn't finish our half hour till 38 past, mats wiped rolled packed away, shoes back on and we didn't get back to our cabins till quarter to nine, leaving not a lot of time for a shower and street clothes before breakfast finished in the MDR at 9.
Then, at 6.30pm, queues of people waited on the stairs, more arrived and packed the lobby with every lift-call, and they didn't open the doors of The Oriental till 2 or 3 minutes past the allotted time. Why? Seemed nuts to us, and potentially dangerous with all those folk on the stairs, particularly on 'long-dress days'
I booked a simple manicure for 9am on the first sea day. I was there on time but was still sitting waiting at 9.15 (on my watch) I went back to the receptionist to cancel, saying it was now 9.15 and I didn't want to miss breakfast. He said 'It's 12 minutes past' !!! I replied it was too late, whatever his watch said. I didn't rebook!
Embarkation and disembarkation was a bit chaotic at times. I know there are a lot of passengers and limited time but I wonder if someone cleverer than me couldn't put their mind to devising and introducing some improvements
There were slight changes to the menu we have become used to. The food was of a high standard with some outstanding meals. Some were rather less successful and we all smiled as a dish which came with new potatoes was accompanied by ... new potatoes and mashed potatoes. Mmm, mmm
We had a great time and count ourselves lucky to pick up such a bargain. It seems to have triggered Spring too, so, as the old song goes, Things Can Only Get Better
Sorry, this is far too long, as ever. I expect I've missed bits you would really want to know about, rather than how good the fish lunches were, so please ask and I'll try to remember.
If you've got this far – hope you enjoyed and excuse the typos
