Melsea's Adventures of First. Part 8

[melsea]

30th Oct Day One on Venice-Simplon Orient Express.

We arose from our exciting slumber feelings and made our way down to breakfast, which is virtually all continental but there were some hot food choices, scrambled egg, boiled eggs, hot ham/bacon, couldn't quite work this one out but it was nice. There was a couple who have done the Orient Express but only from London to Paris and they said do not eat too much as you will be fed well, very well. So the came had come when we had all been gathered Ina large room and were awaiting to be called for the transfer. As it happens we waited near the reception and we ended up on the first taxi boat taking us to the station. The journey was a similar itinerary that we took when we disembarked from Cunard two days before. Incidentally we found out that the Queen Elizabeth had not sailed the day we got off but on our second day at 1pm. It was delayed because of the several weather that the uk was experiencing and that flights had been cancelled and so the Queen Elizabeth delayed its departure. I was sorry to have missed its sail out of Venice.
So onwards on our journey. There were about 14 of us in the first taxi and the journey was a good one be it was a little bumpy, no worse than a tender on any ship only this one was somewhat more glam. Arriving at the station we were jest urged as to the direction we take and when we got to the station a rep was on hand to direct us to which platform to go to. The famous train was not there as we were early and so while we waited we were sent to a cafe on the next platform where we were told to order any drinks as the tab was being picked up by the company. While having our hot drink on the platform our train had arrived on the next platform and since the platform we were on didn't have a train there so we saw the whole train in all it's glory. Cameras, iPads, phones were at the ready to take photos and it was a sure thing they were not going to be the last of them either. No sooner had the train arrived we were ushered to Platform Two of Venice Station with our boarding cards at the ready. We had to pinch ourselves that we were about to board the most famous train in the world. Woo hoo...
Our boarding pass showed we were on sleeper car number 3473 cabin number 01. We met at the entrance of the carriage our steward for the journey, his name was Rupert and he was dressed in his famous blue outfit that you have seen in photos of the Orient Express. As we boarded our cabin was the first one and it was next to the stewards cabin. On entire ring our cabin it was like going back in time. Our bags were already in our cabin and on a little table that is attached to window was a tray of various things including two flute champagne glasses. Our steward speedily filled up our glasses and we were sipping on champagne, we took various photos of each other holding the glasses feeling very special indeed. Once we had acquainted ourselves of our very small special cabin we settled to have next tea for two. Before we left the station of Venezia the restaurant member of staff comes along and ask which sitting we wanted for the evening meal. We had a later one as we wanted to have a drink before dinner in the bar car. And so we were on our way and we left Venice on the only way to arrive and depart from Venice other than by ship as there is no link by road only the railway which was built by the Austrians who at the time owned Venice, I found this out on the Michael Portillo's programme, Great Railway journeys. It wasn't long before we had what was to be the start of our marathon of food, starting with lunch. The restaurant steward comes along and ask what time slot do we want lunch and then we are given a little card to show this. There are three restaurant cars and we would in turn get to eat in all three during our journey on this iconic train.
Our first meal was in the ETOILE DU NORD restaurant, apart from the decor that sets these restaurants apart the chairs you sit on are quite different to what you normally have on trains. These were not fixed to the structure but were beautiful armchair like you would have in any home. They were in a heavy dark green material and very comfortable. The description of this restaurant as it says on the website is as follows (“Etoile du Nord” was built in 1926 in England, and showcases some of the most beautiful marquetry in the continental rake. It ran with the Etoile du Nord train from Paris and then switched to the Edelweiss based in Amsterdam. After running with the Lusitania Express from Lisbon to Madrid it finished service in the 1970s, travelling between Cadiz and Seville).

Onto what we had to eat. First we had 'Pumpkin velvety soup with cardamom infusion Sautéed foie gras stuffed ravioli'. Followed by the main of Pan fried cod fillet and steamed squill fish, star anise melted leeks Urchin roe sauce with white and red chicories caramelised in maple syrup, mini bell peppers filled with Jerusalem artichoke purée. Dessert rich oat flavoured cream and butter biscuits with lemon peels, this I seem to remember was like a moose and lovely it was too. In fact the whole meal was just wonderful, excellent. The descriptions I give here are what was said on the menus which we kept.
We returned to our cabin. It is not by today's standard 'first class' but in its day it most certainly was but it is still a joy to be experiencing it. During the day it is set out just like a ordinary carriage you would have where you used to have separate cabins, don't think you get this anymore. So I will try to describe it. Long material seating area with large cushions attached to the wall above you head. These were a little too big and pert rude too much to be comfortable but you could detach them and use that as an armrest or cushion to lay your head. Although if both of you are in the cabin there is not much room but I am fairly short so was not an issue for me. Bill had gone to explore more of the train. In front of you there is a door which can open if you had the other cabin as well but that was being occupied by another couple. (You can lock your side so as to not have it opened by mistake or on purpose!) There are suites on the train where you have a separate day and evening compartment but for that you pay a premium. Also facing you to the left of the door are three shelves which have areas where you have holders for bottles and glasses. We had complimentary bottles of water on these shelves. Hanging up on the luggage racks were two complimentary blue dressing gowns which you could buy if you so wished again at a price, needless to say we did not take up that offer but they were certainly made us of. Since these cabins do not have toilets you would want to wear one when if you need to use the toilet in the night. Fortunately there was one close by but were others not too far either. To the right of the door in front was a little compartment that housed the sink, round mirror, towels, hand cloths, soap, bottled water, a socket for shaver and two mirrors that were on the inside of the doors. A small blue toiletry bag with complimentary creams, shower gel etc this you can take away with you. Somewhere under the sink there is a safe but we did not know this at the time. There is just too much to take in. By the window there is a table that dismantles like a flap when not in use but there is a small area immediately above this for a lamp and this is fixed. Above the seating are there were four material hangers. Above the entrance door was a fan ( the old fashion kind) but rather quaint. Adjacent to that was a small light to use when the beds are in use. Also there are a few buttons to use to call your steward. We were told how to adjust the lock on our door so that if we use the toilet at night, so as not to lock yourself out, very important to know this.
Having had lunch there was afternoon in your own cabin which seemed to arrive not long after we had lunch or so it seems. It was all very nice and yes we were being very full but believe me as this journey may never be something we will do again we were lapping it all up. Afterwards I had a little nap before we had the evening experience to look forward to. Dressing for dinner was never going to be a problem as everyone would be fittingly dress and on the literature about what to wear, it says you can never be overdressed. So with that in mind and the fact you may only ever do this once, 99% of passengers were in their black tie finery. We made our way to the bar car before dinner and we had to pass through all three restaurant cars to get to it and when we got there is was absolutely packed. We got to the bar and ordered two drinks which were an arm and a leg in price. To entertain us there was a grand piano being played and it was a magical sight to sea. All that was missing was Hercule Poirot. The literature about the bar car is as follows (The Bar Car was built in France in 1931 and based at the Gare Saint-Lazare in Paris. After the war it ran as part of the Sud Express from Paris to Irún on the Spanish border and from Paris to Toulouse in Le Capitole. Today it boasts a beautiful, Art Nouveau-style interior by Gérard Gallet.)

So onto our third eats of the day, and what day it's turning out to be. This dining car was the Côte D' Azur, description by VSOE is as (Decorated by René Lalique, “Côte d’Azur” was built in 1929 as a first-class Pullman. The faintly blue opaque glass shows classical figures with a matching frieze of smaller panels.

The stylish carriage began in the Côte d’Azur Pullman Express before switching to the Deauville Express. It returned to the Côte d’Azur for winter journeys and ran from Paris to Calais for many years, meeting the passengers from the Golden Arrow.

By 1961 it was in a reserve pool used for special services and was eventually stored at the Wagons-Lits works at Villeneuve. It was rescued from a cold and dreary siding in 1981 by Venice Simplon-Orient-Express and restored at Bremen.)

Our meal was like everything else so far, just spectacular. First to come was 'Sea bass roast fillet and shredded smoked eel, lentils spiced with Espellette pepper Lemon cream with "caviar de Venise" with slowly braised loin of milk fed veal on a bed of parsley wild mushrooms Sage cooking jus, broccoli and almonds, fondant potato. Followed by fine cheeses. Than Amaretto ice cream in chocolate sphere. Oranges with tangerine liquor. Ending with small delicacies and tea & coffee. I must say to you all, like all menus they bear no relation to what comes to the table. It was delicious. We braved it back to the bar car to listen to the piano man and had another drink. By the time we finished we were exhausted from the whole day and sheer excitement. While we had been at dinner our lovely steward Rupert had converted our day cabin to a place for us to sleep. It was a completely different look. Our place for the night was a type of bunk beds. Bill had the top bed. The little ladder he used was covered all over in the same upholstery of the furnishings of the day seats. So here it goes travelling through continental Europe.
I will relay our nights sleep in my next report.

[GillD46]

That sounds amazing and is something we have always hoped to do. Do you know if they cater for vegetarians as that would most certainly prevent us going if they don't.

Looking forward to "the night"

[Jan Rosser]

Loved reading this report Mel - what an experience - looking forward to the next chapter

[Dancing Queen]

Sounds wonderful.

This is probably a silly question ... I've looked at the OE albeit a long time ago and one thing that put me off was no mention of a shower so my silly question is .. are there any communal showers ??

[oldbluefox]

Sounds wonderful.

This is probably a silly question ... I've looked at the OE albeit a long time ago and one thing that put me off was no mention of a shower so my silly question is .. are there any communal showers ??

Communal showers? Do you mean those where everybody frolics in together? Whatever do you mean DQ? I don't think OE is that sort of train!!

I have really enjoyed reading your review Melsea. I don't know whether we will ever manage to do OE but this is the next best thing.

[Dancing Queen]

Ha Ha Foxy .. I'm sure you know I meant separate showers for male/females

[oldbluefox]

Ha! Ha! DQ. I know what you meant!!

[Dancing Queen]

[emjay45]

Thank you Melsea, I almost felt I was there. What a wonderful experience to have.

[melsea]

Thanks everyone.

Gill,
at the time of booking you can request anything and the chef will put together your every whim and taste.

Jo,
You did make me laugh. There are no showers at all just a basin in a cupboard inside your cabin. The carriages are as they were when they were first made. There is terrific history for each carriage. So, sorry no mod cons at all.

[Dancing Queen]

Thanks Mel, I didn't think there was as I remember scouring the brochures and couldn't find any mention of

Still sounds absolutely wonderful so never say never